Firstly, acids don’t work like retinoids, which repair skin by provoking inflammation. They work by dissolving the cement between dead skin cells, allowing them to be sloughed off, and leaving youthful, glowing and fresh skin behind.
Skin in it’s 20’s and 30’s will reap the most benefits from acids, as unfortunately they do not work miracles for those deeper wrinkles.
AHA’s – alpha hydroxy acids, are only soluble in water
Glycolic
This is the smallest acid molecule used in skincare, so yields the most dramatic results. The molecules work their way gently into the pores and act like a whirlpool to clear out excess sebum and dead skin cells.
Glycolic Acid works it’s magic to regenerate collagen, thicken the epidermis and dermis, and even skin tone.
Lactic
This is exclusively used to treat hyperpigmentation, age spots and other factors contributing to an uneven/dull complexion. Lactic Acid can also reduce pore size, so if you’re self conscious about that, look no further!
To treat a blotchy chest, extend your Lactic acid product regime a few inches south, and see the effects. Lactic Acid also is brilliant on the dreaded ‘bacne’ (or worse.. ‘buttne’).
Citric
This acid comes from the acid in Lemons, Limes, Oranges and Grapefruit, and is ideal for adjusting the pH of skincare products.
The addition of Citric Acid helps products create a protective coating on the skin, limiting how much moisture evaporates from your skin, promoting hydration through the three top layers of skin.
BHA’s – beta hydroxy acids, are only soluble in oil
Salicylic
As Salicylic Acid is soluble in oil, the molecules get down into the pores to clear out the oil that’s clogging them. They’re also fantastic for skin that’s prone to acne, blackheads and milia – the strange white bumps under your skin, often found around they eye area.
Perfect for calming raging spots, reducing pigmentation and a proven anti-inflammatory, BHA’s are a must-have.
The combination of AHA’s and BHA’s together deliver a double-headed attach on stubborn skin, combatting acne, sun damage, clogged pores and exfoliating the skin on a deeper level. Generally it’s best to alternate between an AHA product and a BHA product each evening for best results, or use a product that contains both in smaller quantities.
PHA’s – polyhydroxy acids
These have a very different molecular structure to AHA’s or BHA’s, being much larger in size, so they cannot penetrate the skin as deeply.
Lactobionic Acid and Gluconolactone
This works exclusively on the skin’s surface, clearing up any issues limited to the epidermis, and ensuring optimum skin renewal with minimal irritation.
If you find other acids too strong this is the one for you! - even compatible with dry, itchy skin conditions such as eczema and atopic rosacea.
It’s really important to remember, when using acids of any kind, to apply SPF during the day, as acids have a tendency to make skin more sensitive to UVA and B rays.